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Water Dragon Care
Water Dragons are carnivorous reptiles accustomed to warm temperatures in humid environments. The diet recommended for Water Dragons consists of insects and pinkies.
Animal Items
Beetles
Crickets & Mealworms (require gut-loading 2 days prior to feeding)
Grasshoppers
Grubs
Isopods (pill bugs)
Moths
Pinky Mice
Waxworms
*Never offer scorpions or lightning bugs.
Vitamin supplements are unnecessary, and in fact are often harmful. When feeding live insects, only provide as many insects as the animal can eat in a few hours. Clean water should be available at all times and, due to high cage humidity, frequent water changes are necessary to minimize bacterial contamination.
Diet
Chinese water dragons (Physignathus cocincinus, also known as Asian, Thai or Green water dragons) are a native arboreal (tree dwelling), diurnal (active during the day) reptile to the forests of India, China and Southeast Asia. They prefer to live on the banks of freshwater lakes and streams. Water dragons are carnivorous and insectivorous. Males grow to about 3 feet in length with about two-thirds of the body length being the tail. Females reach a slightly smaller adult length. In captivity (with proper diet and husbandry), water dragons may live from 10 to 15 years. Do not use this care sheet for Australian water dragon (Physignathus lesueurii) as this species has very different requirements for diet, heat and humidity.
Temperature and Lighting
Daytime ambient temperature (everywhere in the enclosure) should be maintained around 85 degrees F (29 - 32 C). Night time ambient temperature should be maintained at 75 - 80 degrees F (29.5 - 35 C). Water dragons prefer to bask in elevated branches. An Incandescent lamp for basking should should be placed over the branch. Light bulb wattage should be adequate to provide a basking temperature around 90-95 degrees F (32-35 C). This temperature should be measured with a thermometer placed directly at the basking site.
Water dragons require a good source of UVB light for at least 8 hours every day. Fluorescent lamps with a stronger UVB output, such as the Repti-sun 8.0 (ZooMed) or ReptiGlo 8.0 (Exoterra) are appropriate. A mercury vapor lamp, such as Power Sun by ZooMed or Mega Ray at www.reptileUV.com provides both heat and UVB. The lamp should be within 18 inches of the animal's body, with no glass or plastic between them.
Housing
Water dragons require relatively high ambient humidity levels. Recommended cage substrates include orchid bark or bedding bricks made of coconut fiber which absorb and expand when exposed to water. The majority of intestinal impactions occur due to sand (including Calci-Sand), crushed walnut shell, or other substrates composed of small, equal-sized particles and therefore these are not recommended. Indoor-outdoor carpeting is also not recommended due to the possibility of carpet threads constricting toes or being ingested. If possible, provide growing plants in the enclosure to retain proper humidity levels as well as provide climbing, basking and hiding spots. Be sure to use plants that are non-toxic and thrive in high humidity environments.
Veterinary Care
As with many captive reptiles, the most common medical issues seen are due to improper diet or inadequate husbandry. Metabolic bone disease can result from a diet lacking in calcium or from a diet high in calcium depleting nutrients. We can also seen nutritional disorders secondary to parasite infections. Water dragons do not hibernate, so any period of inactivity or decrease in appetite is cause for concern. Swellings on the legs or jaw should also be examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Make sure any substrate and soil used in the cage is free of fertilizers and pesticides as these are toxic to reptiles. If using live plants, make sure potting soil is fertilizer free and the plants have been washed repeatedly before placing in the enclosure. If the plant requires fertilizing, rotate it out of the enclosure for a few weeks.
Gut-Loading
Gut-loading is the practice of feeding insects a diet high in calcium, protein, and other nutrients prior to offering the insects to reptiles and amphibians. Domestic crickets and meal worms should be fed a commercial, grain-based calcium enriched cricket diet such as those made by Flukers or ZooMed, or a diet consisting of four parts chicken or turkey starter mash and one part calcium carbonate for two or three days before offering the crickets to your pet. Also, offer the crickets water in a shallow dish or wet sponge. Gut-loading beyond 2-3 days is not beneficial, and can actually decrease the life expectancy of the insects.