Creator of Durian Pengat helms Peranakan buffet at Orchard Hotel

The chef behind Swissotel Merchant Court’s famed peranakan buffet has switched his apron for a new one at Orchard Hotel, giving its Orchard Café a much-needed stand out factor, in a scene saturated with  “theatrical” and stylish hotel buffet lines.

Chef Paul Then, who is peranakan, made his apt debut in a new hotel with The Flavours of Straits Chinese buffet on one week ago. He now helms a permanent Straits Chinese delicacies section in Orchard Café, which also serves international and local cuisine in its buffet.

We tried a smattering of around 15 Peranakan dishes in typical Tok Panjang style. And that proved to be quite a belly-bursting affair. 

As I attempted to stop The Little Nyonya theme song from playing repeatedly in my head, I sussed out what would get the approval of the ever-imposing Bibik and what would get an icy stare.

(P.S Bibik is a fictional character, but Peranakan matriarchs are known to have sky high standards of cooking)

What would crack a smile on Bibik’s face

1)   Lembu Rendang – the slow-cooked Australian beef cheek was redolent of rendang. The still-pink tender slices was seasoned with a right dash of spices; equal parts hot and savoury. The texture was rich and had a melty finish, unlike the usual disappointingly dried renditions. Goes amazingly well with fluffy white rice

2)   Babi Pongteh – One of those dishes that is used as a yardstick in Peranakan cooking. The braised pork belly is cut in smaller slices, which makes the gravy considerably less oily. The unctuous chunks are simmered to perfect fork-tenderness with pillowy soft meat, glistened with fats that literally melted in my mouth. The gravy, thick with flavours of fermented soya bean paste and soya sauce, gave the dish an added kick.

3)   Boston Lobster Laksa – The humble dish gets an upmarket upgrade in the form of a Boston lobster, but it is still the gravy that screamed for attention. The rich gravy manages to strike a balance between the coconut, rempah paste and candlenut pesto. Slurp it up with the springy noodles

4)   Ayam Buah Keluak – The Indonesian black nut was on par with most Peranakan eateries outside, but what I remembered was how the chicken chunk fell off the bones when forked gently. The rich broth was thickened with the inky kernels.

What would get an icy stare from Bibik?

1)   Durian Pengat – Strangely this dish finds itself here, knowing that Chef Paul Then was the creator of this popular dessert, which has actually became synonymous with the Ellenborough Market Place when he was there. The version seemed much wetter than what I was familiar with. Perhaps it was an addition of the pandan jelly served in a shot glass, which the chef kindly jazzed it up for tasting samples.

2) The braised pork dumpling soup would have had more kick from the bamboo shoots and pork. It was soul-calming, but too calm. Loved the addition of fresh crabmeat though.

I would have loved to try other dishes which were not available in the tasting menu, such as the Mango Udang Kerabu (prawns tossed with mangoes and sour plum sauce) and the Nangka curry (jackfruit curry in coconut broth).

From August 1 to 11, diners can enjoy “The Flavours of Straits Chinese” Buffet at only $4.80 for every second diner, dressed in RED, as part of the National Day celebrations.

Straits Chinese and Asian Buffet is served daily at Orchard Café, Orchard Hotel. Prices start from $46 for adults

For reservations and information, call 6739 6565 or email orchardcafe.ohs@millenniumhotels.com.

** Special thanks to Orchard Hotel Singapore for organising the tasting session.