egrstyle

 

Una lista completa in ordine alfabetico degli indispensabili vocaboli di stile

A complete list of essential style words in alphabetical order

 

A

Alpaca

A fine and lustrous yarn from an alpaca, a sheep-like animal of the camel family native to the Andes. Alpaca yarns are often woven with wool or cashmere to create a luxuriously soft, lightweight fabric.

Angora

An extremely fuzzy yarn typically from the angora goat but sometimes from the angora rabbit. It is most often knit to create soft sweaters.

Anorak

A hip-length hooded sport jacket ideal for inclement weather. This jacket was originally worn by Eskimos and later adapted for use in WWII before becoming a popular design for everyday wear.

Après-ski

French term meaning “after ski” used to describe clothing and accessories typically worn off the slopes. Popularized in the 1950s at famous ski resorts , the look includes colorful sportswear pieces such as fur vests and knits.

Aran

Named after the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland, a knit pattern of raised cabling and interlacing diamond-shaped designs.

Argyle

A knit pattern of diamond shapes in various colors set against a solid background. Originally a Scottish tartan for the Campbell clan, this pattern is most often seen in socks and sweaters.

Ascot

A man’s neck scarf worn looped under the chin for sophisticated style.

Aviator

A term used to describe clothing and accessories designed after the utilitarian style of pilots’ gear.

B 

Band collar

A collar that stands up straight, encircles the neck and buttons in the front. Originally the point of attachment for removable collars, band collars now provide a casual twist to the dress shirt.

Bar tack

A width of fabric or a stitch on the back of a tie that helps maintain the tie’s shape.

Baranil

Naturally tanned in France, a type of leather known for its rich color and ability to age well overtime without looking worn.

Barathea

A fabric with a distinctive pebbly texture. In wool, it is a dress fabric often used for men’s tuxedos and fine women’s garments; in silk, it is a common neckwear fabric.

Barn jacket

A utilitarian overcoat in durable, water-resistant oiled cotton that has a corduroy collar, large pockets and a wool or flannel lining. Most commonly used for hunting, the barn jacket has become a classic casual sport coat for everyday use.

Barré

Typically seen in neckwear, a fabric with horizontal stripes, or bars, in two or more colors. The term also describes a fabric with irregularities in color or texture, thus giving the finished product a striped effect.

Barrel cuff

A band of fabric stitched onto the sleeve end that closes with one or more buttons.

Bateau neckline

Named after the French word for “boat,” a high neckline that follows the line of the collarbone and mimics the shape of the top of a rowboat.

Batiste

Cotton, silk or wool that is lightweight and often sheer. Batiste is typically used in women’s blouses and dresses and in some men’s shirts.

Bedford cord

A durable fabric, often cotton, silk or wool, typically cut so that its signature raised rib appears vertically. The heavyweight textile is often used for clothing that undergoes rough wear, such as riding trousers.

Bemberg

Often used in linings, a fine Italian fabric made from natural cellulose fibers known for its silky texture and breathability.

Bengaline

Cotton, silk or acrylic fabric with a fine rib. Originating in Bengal, India, this fabric is most often used in dressy suits and coats as well as ribbons and neckwear.

Beret

A woolen cap with a tight headband and relaxed flat top. Originally worn by the Basques, this cap has come to typify chic Parisian style.

Bermuda shorts

Casual knee-length shorts, originally made fashionable on the island of Bermuda but now a summer wardrobe staple.

Besom pocket

A pocket finished with a narrow folded piece of fabric at the opening. This finishing technique reinforces the pocket opening and is typically used in finely tailored garments.

Bespoke

A term referring to custom-made clothing.

Bird’s eye

Cotton or fine wool fabric distinguished by small repetitive diamond shapes that resemble a bird’s eyes.

Bi-swing jacket

A sports jacket with pleats in the back to allow increased freedom of movement.

Blazer

A single- or double-breasted sports jacket with a notched collar that has become a men’s wardrobe staple and a favorite dressing option for women as well.

Bomber jacket

A leather jacket with a zippered front, elasticized cuffs and waistband and sheepskin lining. Originally used by US Air Force pilots, this jacket is a popular choice to reflect rugged style.

Bouclé

From the French for “to buckle or curl,” a type of yarn with a looped effect that is woven or knit to create a nubbed and highly textured surface. Although bouclé can produce a lightweight fabric, it is more often used in a heavier weight for sweaters

Bow tie

A necktie worn around the collar of a shirt that is knotted like a bow. Bow ties date back to the 1800s when visiting Croatian cavalrymen introduced the look to the French regency. Today the more tailored version has come to show distinguished elegance, e

Boxer short

A men’s undergarment staple often in cotton or silk, based on the garment worn in the sport of boxing.

Bridle

Equestrian equipment placed over the horse’s head for control.

Broadcloth

A shirting fabric with a plain weave usually made of combed cotton or cotton blends.

Brushed

A fabric finish in which the surface is brushed to produce a soft nap. Chino and flannel are two examples of fabrics that are often brushed for softness and comfort.

Bullion

Fine metal wire wound in a tubular shape resembling thin coils. Traditionally used in military badges in France, bullion embroidery is considered an extremely specialized skill.

Burnished calf

Calfskin that is hand-finished to achieve depth and dimension in color.

Button-down collar

A collar that is secured to the shirt by small buttons on both points. Originating in England during the 1800s, button-down collars were used by polo players to keep their collars in place.

 C 

Cable knit

A knitting pattern in which cables appear to twist around one another.

Calfskin

Leather made from the skin of the calf.

Camel hair

Type of cloth made from camel hair.

Camp shirt

A casual button-down shirt, often in cotton, with a notched collar, boxy cut, straight hem and short sleeves.

Canvas

A heavy, durable plain-weave fabric, usually in cotton, linen, hemp or wool.

Car coat

A three-quarter-length A-line sport coat popularized in the 1950s as a comfortable option while driving a car.

Cardigan

A sweater style that buttons down the front.

Cashmere

An extremely soft and lightweight fiber combed from the undercoat of the long-haired Kashmir goat. Because only a few ounces are obtained from each goat, this luxurious fiber is scarce and very costly.

Chalk stripe

Thin, evenly spaced white or grey lines on dark fabrics, often used in suiting.

Chambray

A lightweight plain-weave fabric, usually made of cotton, which combines an indigo yarn with a white yarn to achieve a denim-like effect.

Chamois

A fabric with a soft nap meant to imitate a type of sueded leather from the chamois goat.

Channel stitching

Parallel lines of straight stitches often seen in quilting.

Chesterfield

A men’s or women’s single- or double-breasted wool overcoat with a straight cut and a velvet collar. Named after the 6th Earl of Chesterfield, a fashion leader in the 1830s and 1840s.

Cheviot

A very rough, textured tweed made from the wool of the Cheviot sheep, native to the hilly border country between England and Scotland.

Chevron

Popular in Art Nouveau style, a pattern characterized by inverted V’s.

Collar pin

A pin or clip similar to a safety pin that secures underneath the tie knot to hold the collar in place and create a higher arc for the knot.

Color-blocking

The use of large areas of contrasting solid color on a single garment for a bold effect.

Colorfastness

The ability of a fabric to maintain its color and not fade or run.

Corduroy

A durable cotton fabric with raised vertical rows of soft pile. The more rows per inch, the finer the wale.

Corozo button

A high-quality scratch-resistant button crafted from the Tagua nut and used as a natural alternative to synthetic buttons.

Cotton

The soft, fluffy fibers gathered from the seed pods of the cotton plant. There are several grades of cotton fiber; Pima and Sea Island are the best quality.

Coverall

A loose-fitting jumpsuit worn as a protective layer over other garments. In layette clothing, a one-piece garment for newborns.

Covert

A rugged twill fabric, usually wool, woven from a twisted yarn that blends two dark colors for a subtly flecked look.

Cowlneck

A draped neckline in which fabric falls in soft folds.

Crepe

Often silk or rayon, a fabric known for its pebbly and sometimes dry surface.

Crewneck

A round collarless neckline.

Cuff

The turned-up hem of a trouser or the separate sewn-on extension of a shirt sleeve.

Cuff link

A decorative linked fastener worn to close a shirt cuff.

Cummerbund

A wide pleated waistband usually worn with a tuxedo.

Cupro

Often used as a lining, a fabric created from regenerated cellulose fiber that breathes like cotton but feels like silk.

Cutaway collar
The cutaway collar, also known as the spread collar, is a fashionable option for men’s shirts. Cutaway collars add a dressier touch to a suit, but this type of collar can be worn with or without a tie.

 

D

Damask
A type of jacquard fabric with a rich, reversible pattern. Originally a silk fabric from Damascus, damask now comes in both silk and man-made fibers, often with the addition of gold and silver thread.

Dart

A V-shaped sewn tuck used to make a garment fit to the body.

Deck shoe

A sneaker- or loafer-style shoe with a canvas upper and sturdy rubber sole inspired by shoes worn while boating.

 Deerskin

An expensive, supple leather with a rugged, outdoorsy appearance.

Denim

A sturdy cotton twill most commonly woven with an indigo blue yarn and gray or mottled white yarn.

Dinner jacket

A single- or double-breasted tuxedo jacket finished with a shawl collar or peaked lapels.

Dip-dye

To color the ends of a fabric by partially immersing it in a solution for a gradated effect.

Doeskin fabric

A closely woven wool fabric with an extremely soft nap that is made to imitate sueded doeskin leather.

Donegal

Named for the county in Ireland, a woolen knit or tweed with coarse multicolored yarns that produce a mottled effect.

Double knit

Rib-knit jersey fabric made with double sets of needles resulting in a denser, more substantial fabric.

Double-faced

The term used to describe fabric that can be worn on either side.

Double-forward pleats

Set of two trouser pleats in which the folds face outward.

Double-needle topstitching

A method of finishing a seam with a row of stitches on either side of it.

Down

Light and extremely warm waterfowl feathers used as soft and luxurious stuffing for clothing and pillows.

Drape

A term used to describe the way fabric hangs or folds.

Drawstring

An adjustable cord laced through a hem, usually at the waistline, cuff or hood.

Driving mocassin

A slip-on loafer-like shoe style characterized by small rubber nubs at the sole.

Duffle coat
A duffle coat is a coat made from duffle, a coarse, thick, woollen material. The name derives from Duffel, a town in the province of Antwerp in Belgium where the material originates.

The duffle coat owes its popularity to the British Royal Navy, who issued a camel-coloured variant of it as an item of warm clothing during WWI. The design of the coat was modified slightly and widely issued during Ww II. In the Navy, it was referred to as a “convoy coat”Field Marshal Montgomery was a famous wearer of the coatas a means of identifying himself with his troops, leading to another nickname, “Monty coat”.

Duofold

A lightweight double-layer mesh piqué fabric.

E 

Eau de parfum

A type of fragrance containing a high concentration of essential oils and aromatic compounds for a stronger, longer lasting scent.

Eau de toilette

A type of fragrance containing a lower concentration of essential oils and aromatic compounds for a lighter scent.

Egyptian cotton

Produced along the Nile River in Egypt, high-quality long-staple cotton fiber that is stronger and more lustrous than other grades of cotton.

Elastane

A synthetic fiber known for excellent elasticity and recovery ability.

Embossing

A finishing process used to create a raised or depressed design on fabric, leather or metal.

Embroidery

A centuries-old art in which fabric is embellished using a needle and thread to create decorative designs.

End-on-end

A plain-woven, typically cotton shirting fabric with alternating warped yarns, one in white and one in color, to produce a chambray effect.

Engineered

A term used to describe a print that is strategically laid out in the cutting or knitting of a garment.

Epaulet

A military-inspired band of fabric, often attached with a button, that adorns the shoulders of a jacket, coat, sweater or shirt.

Espadrille

A rope-soled shoe with a canvas upper, sometimes with lacing that ties around the ankle. .

Eyelet

A type of embroidery in which holes are punched.

 

F 

Face

A term used to describe the front of the fabric.

Fair Isle

A colorful geometric design, often knit in soft, heathered yarns, named after one of the Shetland Islands in Scotland.

Fedora

A soft felt hat with a medium-sized brim and creased crown.

Felt

A type of fabric characterized by a densely matted texture.

Fisherman’s sweater

A heavy, hand-knit, patterned sweater often made from natural, water-repellent wool and originally worn by Irish fishermen.

Flannel

A tightly woven fabric, usually cotton or wool, that is brushed for a soft surface and additional warmth.

Flap pocket

A pocket with a separate piece of material covering the opening.

Flat-front

A term used to describe a trouser with no pleats.

Fleece

A soft material with a napped, fuzzy surface.

Fly

In fashion, a buttoned or zippered closure hidden under a fold of cloth.

Four-in-hand

A common necktie style fastened in a slipknot with long ends that hang one in front of the other.

French cuff

Found on dress shirts, a double cuff that folds back and fastens with cuff links.

G 

Gabardine

Often used in tailored clothing, a durable, compactly woven twill fabric, sometimes with a high sheen.

Garment-dyed

A term used to describe the process of dyeing a garment by immersing it in a coloring solution after it has been sewn.

Gauze

A sheer, loosely woven lightweight fabric, typically cotton, silk or wool.

Gingham

A cotton fabric with a small checkered pattern, most typically in white and another color.

Glen plaid

A Scottish tartan featuring a woven design of small and large checks creating a box-like pattern.

Gorge

The seam where the collar and lapel meet on a men’s jacket, forming the notch.

Grain

A term used to describe the direction of fibers in a woven fabric. Straight-grain refers to the fibers running the length of a fabric, while cross-grain refers to the fibers running the width of a fabric. Grain may also refer to the markings in leather, w

Grosgrain

A closely woven silk or rayon fabric with narrow horizontal ribs, primarily used for ribbons and trimming.

Gusset

A piece of fabric, either in a diamond or triangle shape, inserted in a garment to allow for more space and greater movement. Gussets typically appear under the arms of sleeves or at the sides of shirttails.

H 

Haberdashery

A store that sells men’s apparel and accessories.

Hacking jacket

Originally worn for horseback riding, a tailored, single-breasted jacket, often in tweed, with slanted flap pockets and a vented back.

Haircalf

An expensive leather, typically cow leather, with the hair of the animal exposed and treated with a tanning process for a subtle sheen.

Half Windsor

Named after the Duke of Windsor who popularized the look in the early 1920s, the Half Windsor is a sophisticated type of necktie knot that works best with standard shirt collars.

Hammer loop

Inspired by the styling of a carpenter’s pant, a strip of fabric usually attached to the side seam of a pant, originally used as a loop for holding hammers and other tools.

Hand-woven

Material woven on a hand-operated loom. The uneven quality of hand-woven material is highly prized for certain types of garments, like tweed suits.

Heather

A yarn consisting of differently colored fibers that are blended together to give a soft, muted look.

Hem

The finished edge or border on an item of clothing.

Heraldic

A term used to describe symbols or crests embroidered on a jacket or tie.

Herringbone

A twill fabric, usually wool, with a distinctive zig-zag pattern that resembles the bone structure of a herring fish.

Horn button

A quality button crafted animal horn.

Houndstooth

A fabric, usually wool, with distinctive broken checks that resemble pinwheels or the pointed teeth.

 

I 

Inseam

The seam in a pant or short that runs from the crotch to the hem and used to measure leg length.

Intarsia

Knitting technique used to create an inlay effect with a colorful motif set into a solid colored background.

Interlining

A fabric, typically in cotton or wool, that is inserted between the interior lining and outer fabric of a garment to provide extra warmth, padding or body.

Interlock

A tightly knit fabric that looks and feels similar to knit jersey but with more natural stretch and the same smooth look and feel on both sides.

Inverted pleat

A pleat made by folding two edges toward a center line and pressing into place.

Irish linen

A high-quality linen produced from a flax grown in Northern Ireland.

J

Jacquard

Named after the loom on which it is produced, a fabric woven or knit with an elaborate decorative design.

Jersey

A soft, lightweight fabric knit in a plain stitch without a distinct rib.

Jodhpur

A classic symbol of equestrian style, a pant that fits loosely at the hips and tightly at the calves with applied patches at the inner knees.

K

Kangaroo pocket

Commonly found on sweatshirts, a large pouch-like pocket with hand openings at either side.

Knit

A type of garment that is hand- or machine-made by interlocking looped stitches.

L 

Lambskin

A soft leather made from the skin of a young sheep.

Lambswool

A soft, resilient wool yarn gathered from the first shearing of a sheep before it is eight months old to ensure the best quality.

Linen

Made from the fibers of the flax plant, a fabric that is stronger, cooler and more absorbent than cotton.

Lining

An extra layer of fabric at the interior of a garment to retain shape, prevent clinging or provide warmth.

M 

Madras

Originally from Madras, India, a plain-weave lightweight cotton fabric known for its colorful vegetable-dyed plaid pattern that fades and bleeds over time to create a muted effect.

Mandarin collar

An Asian-inspired band collar with a small opening at the center.

Matelassé

A rich double-cloth fabric woven on a jacquard or dobby loom to create an embossed effect.

Mélange

French term meaning “mix”.

Mercerized

A term used to describe yarn or fabric that has undergone a finishing process to increase luster and smoothness.

Merino

A high-quality wool yarn made from the fleece of Merino sheep.

Mesh

A lightweight and breathable fabric knit with an open weave to produce a screen-like or net effect.

Microfiber

A durable, naturally water-repellant synthetic fiber that is silky in appearance and extremely breathable.

Mockneck

A loose stand collar designed slightly shorter than a turtleneck.

Mohair

The long, shiny and soft hair from the angora goat usually loosely woven or knit to produce fuzzy wools and knits.Moleskin

A cotton fabric that is brushed on the surface to produce a suede-like effect.

Monogram

An embroidered, embossed or engraved design of one or more of a person’s initials.

Mother-of-pearl

The strong, lustrous and iridescent lining of the oyster, abalone or other mollusk often used to make buttons.

N

Nappa leather

A rich supple calf leather that has been tanned with a special oil mixture for a soft, pliable feel.

Needlepoint

A style of embroidery in which wool yarns are stitched through an open canvas.

Notched collar

A tailored collar that has a triangular indentation or “notch” where the lapel meets the collar.

O

Oilcloth

A durable fabric, usually cotton, that has been coated with oil for a waterproof finish.

Oxford

A soft, basket-woven cotton primarily used as a shirting fabric. First woven by a Scottish mill, oxford cloth was one of four fabrics named after famous universities; Harvard, Yale and Cambridge cloth never became as popular.

 

P 

Paisley

A swirled pattern characterized by a teardrop shape. Popularized in Paisley, Scotland during the 1800s, this design was originally an adaptation of a spade pattern found on Indian shawls. 

Panno Casentino

The traditional fabric produced since half of XIX  century in Casentino region, an area of Tuscany surrounding the upper course of Arno river from its source to the city of Arezzo.
The fabric is made of felted and raising wool with characteristic curls and own a complete natural thermal insulation. Original colours are green and orange.

Pashmina

Made from wool combed from the undercoat of Himalayan mountain goats, a featherweight fabric that rivals cashmere in softness and warmth.

Patch pocket

A flat, outside pocket stitched onto a garment.

Patent leather

A type of leather that has been treated to create a shiny, hard surface.

Pea coat

Popularized in the 1920s as a nautical style, a hip-length double-breasted wool jacket with wide lapels, notched collar and buttons featuring an anchor motif.

Pile

A type of fabric with small loops forming the surface. Terry cloth is an example of a pile fabric in which the loops remain intact; velvet and corduroy are examples of pile fabrics in which the tops of the loops have been cut off.

Pima cotton

A luxurious high-quality long-staple cotton that resists pilling.

Pincord

A fabric with very narrow ribbing.

Pinpoint

A soft and lustrous oxford cotton with an ultra-fine basket weave.

Pinstripe

Thin, evenly spaced white or grey lines on dark fabrics, often used in suiting.

Piping

A slim bias-cut strip of fabric folded and stitched into a seam for a decorative trim.

Piqué

A durable knit fabric characterized by a textured honeycomb pattern.

Placket

A strip of fabric usually at the center where the garment fastens together.

Pleat

A decorative fold of fabric.

Ply

A term used to describe the number of fibers twisted together to form a single yarn. Higher-ply yarn is often considered to be superior, as it is stronger and more durable.

Poplin

A tightly woven, durable, plain-weave fabric with a slight ridge effect.

Pullover

A knit top that can be pulled on over the head.

Q 

Quilting

A fabric construction in which a layer of fill, often down, cotton or batting, is sandwiched between two layers of fabric and usually finished with crisscross stitching.

R 

Raglan sleeve

A sleeve with a slanted seam that extends from the underarm to the neckline.

Regimental stripes

Wide, colored stripes that run on the diagonal, originally seen in Britain to identify military regiments.

Repp

Often used in neckwear, a type of weave that creates a subtle ribbed texture.

Ribbon

A flat, long and narrow strip of fabric made in a variety of weaves, including grosgrain, satin and velvet.

Rib-knit

A stretchy, durable knit fabric with alternating raised and lowered rows frequently used for trim on socks, sleeves, waists and necklines.

Ripstop

A lightweight fabric, often made of nylon, woven with a small-scale allover grid design to stop tears from spreading.

Rise

A tailoring term that refers to the distance between the crotch and the top of the waistband.

Rugby shırt

Inspired by rugby uniforms, a long-sleeved knit shirt, often with bold horizontal stripes in two alternating colors, with a solid knit collar and a buttoned placket.

S 

Sea Island cotton

Grown in the West Indies and off the coast of the southeastern United States, one of the longest cotton fibers in the world known for it’s superior strength, softness and luster.

Seersucker

A traditionally preppy midweight fabric, often made in cotton, that has a puckered appearance.

Selvage

Also called “self-edge,” a type of high grade denim with a finished edge which keeps it from fraying.

Shawl collar

A long, curved turn-back collar.

Shearling

Lamb or sheepskin that has been tanned with the curly wool left on.

Shetland wool

The soft, shaggy, tweedlike wool from the sheep of the Sheltland Islands in Scotland.

Silhouette

A term used to describe the contour or outline of a garment when worn on the body.

Spazzolato

A high-gloss leather that’s shinier than calf but not as glossy as patent.

Sprezzatura

The italian art of “a certain nonchalance”, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it. Popularised by Renaissance-era Venetian diplomat Baldesar Castiglione, the word refers to dressing in a manner that appears casual but stylish. With an air of sprezzatura a man can transform a pocket square from an affectation into a charming accessory.

Stone washed

Often used on denim, a washing process that uses abrasive stones to achieve a soft finish.

Suede

The softer side of leather that has been buffed for a velvet-like feel.

Swiss dot

A small dot pattern woven or embroidered on a very lightweight fabric.

T

Tartan
A multi-colored plaid fabric. Authentic tartan designs originated in Scotland where different plaids were used to represent each clan and their heritage.

Tattersall
A small-scale check design against a solid background.

Ticket pocket

A British tailoring term for a small flap pocket placed above the right hip pocket on a suit jacket or overcoat for convenient storage of tickets or coins.

Tricotine

A lightweight breathable fabric, usually made of wool, with a double twill weave.

Tropical wool

A smooth wool fabric made from two-ply yarns in an open plain weave. Often used for summer clothing, tropical wool is lightweight enough for year-round wear.

Tweed

Often used for sweaters, coats and suits, a durable textured woolen fabric from the British Isles woven with different colored yarns for a subtly flecked appearance.

Twill

A fabric woven with diagonal lines on the surface.

 

V 

Vacchetta

An untreated leather that develops a natural patina over time.

Velvet

A cotton, silk or rayon fabric in a plain, twill or satin weave that has a pile, which is usually cut and brushed for a plush surface.

Vent

A slit in the hem of a garment to provide ease of movement.

Voile

A lightweight, sheer, plain-weave fabric usually made in cotton with a slightly crisp feel.

W 

Wale

A term referring to the width of the vertical ridges on the surface of a fabric such as corduroy. Pinwale is the thinnest and wide wale is the thickest.

Welt pocket

An inset pocket with a slit opening.

Western shirt

A shirt style with a V-shaped front and back yoke, snap closures and one or two chest pockets.

Windbreaker

A lightweight jacket in a wind-resistant fabric such as nylon, usually with a hood and a close-fitting waistband and cuffs.

Windowpane

A pattern of continuous lines that intersect to form boxes evocative of a windowpane.

Windsor knot

Popularized by the Duke of Windsor in the 1920s, a wide triangular tie knot usually worn with spread collars.

Wingtip

A shoe style with perforated seams and a contrasting pointed toe cap with curved sides that resemble wings.

Wool crepe

A lightweight wool fabric with a dry pebbly surface.

Worsted

A tightly twisted yarn that produces crisp, smooth woolens.

 

Y 

Yarn-dyed

A dyeing process in which the yarns are immersed in a coloring solution first and then woven or knit into fabric.

Yoke

A cut of fabric seamed across the top of a pant, skirt or shirt.